Any luxury designer planning to launch a diffusion range ought to look to Preen Line for a model. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi do yeoman's work distilling the ideas they've explored in catwalk collections and interpolating them into clothes that aren't just more accessibly priced than mainline Preen, but more youthful, utilitarian, and casual as well. Preen Line is like Preen's knockabout younger sister.

Thornton and Bregazzi executed that formula particularly well this season, turning out a lot of tomboyish looks, such as updated tracksuits and printed or embroidered motorcycle jackets. The bikers and the tartan here carried a strong whiff of Fall, but the garments themselves were convincing, and they worked nicely with the patchworked Army-inspired pieces, the collection's bolt of cobalt, and its painterly peony print. Though very pretty, that peony print had a toughness to it that made it interesting. There were also some straightforwardly pretty, quite feminine looks here, but what made this outing work was its atmosphere of rough-and-tumble.