September 11, 2013 New York
Cotton crepe pantsuits and a coat were garment-printed to look as if a paint roller had been taken to the fabric, with only the seams and edges untouched—they were more elegant than that description sounds. Hernandez and McCollough printed silk crepe dresses with silhouettes of branches and trees; it was remarkable how three-dimensional the patterns looked. And a coat was embroidered with a dense silk pile; it resembled nothing so much as a Moroccan Berber rug. All of those artful details could've weighed the collection down. The three-quarter-length hems of dresses, skirts, and cropped culottes might've looked droopy. But the designers mostly avoided those pitfalls. Meanwhile, pleats, which they began exploring in their Resort collection, got the couture treatment, bonded with razor-thin strips of silver and bronze foil. Those dresses looked effortless to wear; they'll be spending a lot of time on the red-carpet circuit.
There's been a definite uptick in the number of cold-weather coats on the Spring runways. With their turn-key closures and squared-off contrast lapels, Proenza Schouler's rank among the best.