If you had any doubt that pop stars have usurped Hollywood celebrities as the be-all and end-all of the public's fascination, the proof was on Peter Dundas' Emilio Pucci runway tonight: its embrace of streetwear, its celebration of gym clothes, its extreme body confidence. To us, it had Bad Girl Riri's name all over it. Dundas pointed out that he's been dressing more musicians lately. Rita Ora and Beyoncé both wore his clothes on recent tours. Clearly, the experience has energized him.

Designers up and down the runways have been at this kind of thing this season—Gucci's Frida Giannini in Milan; Alexander Wang in New York. Dundas differentiated himself by mashing up the basketball and scuba and boxing gear with Masai embroideries. A beaded bustier dress with a draped silk jersey skirt is destined to be a big hit. That was hardly the end of the beading, though. There were a tank top and track pants embroidered in gold on black net, an allover beaded hoodie emblazoned with PUCCI and the year of its birth, 1947, and long dresses made from beaded basketball mesh. It'd take a top-of-the-charts paycheck to afford any of these.

But maybe the most interesting thing about this collection was that the sporty element wasn't only for show. The parachute silk of a printed parka, the liquid silver material Dundas used for running shorts, the draped sarouel-meets-jogging pants—they were practically weightless. Naysayers will argue that Dundas has ventured too far from Emilio Pucci's born-in-Capri DNA. Really? If there is a twenty-first-century jet set, Rihanna is it.