Change comes incrementally in Raquel Allegra
collections. It does come, though, even if you have to look closely to see it. This season, for instance, Allegra did quite a bit to refine her tailoring, integrating more structured fabrics than usual and introducing soft-tailored looks with a military vibe. There was also an uptick in color here—a pale pink gauze, for instance, made for a welcome brightener, while the standout among Allegra's tie-dyes this season was a black splotched with varying shades of red and pink. A silk maxi tank dress with that dye job will be on many a girl's summer wardrobe wish list. And for that matter, the white-backed pieces, with splatters of pink and navy, are going to have a lot of takers, too. Allegra is getting increasingly playful with her dyeing techniques, and increasingly subtler with the deconstruction that made her name; here, in most of the looks, the deconstruction was reduced to a gesture, like the raw hems of a silk sheath. All in all, this collection was a case study in how to reaffirm brand signatures while also subtly advancing them.