Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear
October 07, 2013 New York
Change comes incrementally in Raquel Allegra collections. It does come, though, even if you have to look closely to see it. This season, for instance, Allegra did quite a bit to refine her tailoring, integrating more structured fabrics than usual and introducing soft-tailored looks with a military vibe. There was also an uptick in color here—a pale pink gauze, for instance, made for a welcome brightener, while the standout among Allegra's tie-dyes this season was a black splotched with varying shades of red and pink. A silk maxi tank dress with that dye job will be on many a girl's summer wardrobe wish list. And for that matter, the white-backed pieces, with splatters of pink and navy, are going to have a lot of takers, too. Allegra is getting increasingly playful with her dyeing techniques, and increasingly subtler with the deconstruction that made her name; here, in most of the looks, the deconstruction was reduced to a gesture, like the raw hems of a silk sheath. All in all, this collection was a case study in how to reaffirm brand signatures while also subtly advancing them.