Reed Krakoff was making headlines before his show started today. It was announced that the designer and a group of partners have closed on the purchase of his business from Coach. His Spring show augured well for the brand's future. Krakoff has established his minimalist codes, and slowly he's evolving them. After a nice Fall outing focused on tailoring, this season he took more of a dressmaker's approach. "It's super-fluid and feminine," he said of his collection before the show. The first dress had ruched details and raw-edged, asymmetrical hems; it came in a chintzed nude chiffon with a lacquered sheen. Slipdresses have become one of the big developments of the week, and Krakoff has inserted himself into that picture.
He also had a few things to contribute to the emerging sporty story. There were tracksuits in fluid twill, a white mesh sweatshirt with delicate black ivy embroidery, and most appealing, a very luxe take on a sexy sleeveless dress we'll call the wrapped towel (a Spring micro-trend). A sleeveless trench in the same substantial bonded satin also looked good. Where Krakoff was most innovative was his suiting. A leather shell that wrapped in the back was made from a single piece of fabric, with no side seams, and the vest underneath a white linen coat was constructed from the hem of its lapel. It was a deceptively simple trompe l'oeil trick that was actually incredibly difficult to pull off. There is a cool precision to Krakoff's tailoring. It might take some time until his dressmaker skills are as confident as that coat, but give him a hand for trying.
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