September 04, 2013 New York
Spring's lineup still has the sporty-meets-sexy elements of the past, but there's a new edge of refinement. (Gone is the "cheesy L.A." element that plagues so many West Coast designers—maybe that's because Rodriguez splits his time between the two cities, and this time around New York won out.)
Everything is black and white, with just the occasional element of powder blue or cream. With that strict palette comes attention to fabrication and proportion. A zip-back, wide-sleeve top in white is layered over a honeycomb net tank and a cream-colored leather pencil skirt. A white sheath dress with billowing sleeves and a black sheer insert at the collarbone is sculptural without straying too far from the commercial. And a pair of deep-pleated trousers in a luxurious-looking Japanese crepe are cropped to just the right length.
Rodriguez really likes to use bonded fabric—and he bonded the seams on nearly every piece to give them a super-clean edge. It's a technique that works well with his new vision for the brand. So far, so good.