September 30, 2013 Paris
The unexpected mix is the essence of Abe's aesthetic; what we saw here was trademark Sacai, only supercharged. Previously she's preferred tonal shades, but today she turned up the brights: sky blue, emerald green, highlighter pink, and an electric coral that looked good with neon orange. The floral print that she used for a trompe l'oeil dress and gown (they looked like duchesse satin sweatshirt and chiffon skirt combos) was another surprise. But where Abe got really creative was with the show's menswear materials. True, they're more of a common sight at Sacai, but not the way the designer treated them this season. A Prince of Wales check that she bonded and laser-cut to resemble athletic mesh appeared as the sleeves of a baseball-jersey sweater that looked as if it was layered over a suit jacket and skirt in that check. It was a mash-up of a mash-up of a mash-up. But let's not overthink things: What it was was one hell of a clever dress, in one hell of a clever collection.