Saloni Lodha launched her business in 2008 with a few wrap dresses in pretty prints, mostly worn by buddies like Charlotte Dellal and Poppy Delevingne—the cool-girl club where Lodha herself is a card-carrying member. But in the past few years, her collection has gone through a growth spurt. There is a more cohesive, grown-up message in her Spring collection—perhaps a result of her own life growth. Marriage and a new baby seem to have centered her, all for the better.

Her starting point this season was Betty, Gerhard Richter's photorealistic painting of his daughter. Lodha focused on the poppy-print coat worn by the little girl and Richter's signature blurry brushstrokes. It was most obvious in a three-quarter-sleeve dress in colors Saloni described as "brocade chili and palace blue." An aurora borealis print appeared on her popular Apsara dress, affectionately nicknamed "the bum dress," she explained, "because I have been told it makes every woman's butt look amazing. Both Helena Christensen and SamCam have worn them, not that they need any help in the bum department."

Lodha's silhouettes have advanced beyond the wrap styles she's known for. There was a cleverly draped short black number as well as a sharp black jumpsuit that felt new for her. Restraint was the order of the day here, especially in her use of beading. She could have gone nuts with embellishments—being Indian, after all, that is a birthright. The standout piece was the Victoria dress, a blue and white embroidered frock with a beautiful bodice detail, just the thing for a summer wedding. But where the collection really matured was fabric. Lodha has worked extensively with a Japanese mill in an effort to keep her prices reasonable—a point she is passionate about. Her sumptuous rayon and viscose pieces feel no different in quality to her hammered silks and quilted and embossed jacquards.