After showing in London for the past five years, Sass & Bide
made a triumphant return to New York fashion week (it's in good company, with fellow Aussies Dion Lee and Zimmerman also joining the NYFW calendar). The move was well timed, as the opening of the label's first stateside flagship will be on Broome Street in late November. As usual, the message was in the mix this season. "You can't put the collection in any particular category," said designers Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke backstage. "It's a considered clash—a polished confusion." Combining masculine and feminine elements, they styled sharp satin blazers with flowing Swiss dot tulle skirts; slouchy suits featuring floral embroidery details came with sheer, fluttering trains attached to the pants. Meanwhile, the S&B duo paired a structured, almost armor-like, bustier top with relaxed trousers, and updated a peplum minidress in basket-woven leather. Other standouts here included a houndstooth-printed skort (reversed with the shorts in front and skirt flap in back) as well as cream-colored gowns and jumpsuits decorated with gold hand stitching and tough hardware. The resulting modern mash-up should resonate with girls who refuse to put a label on their sense of style.