September 10, 2013 New York
There were a lot of strong looks here, with the snug dresses and skirts with pleated chiffon hems hitting a particular va-va-voom nerve. But the collection's impact in toto was blunted by the overuse of a couple of botanical motifs inspired by the artist Rosemarie Trockel. After the show, Theallet said she liked the idea of showcasing a weed—in this particular instance, a weed that could also be used as medicine. "Bad and good together," she explained. "I like the paradox. I like complicated, because women are complicated." Point taken, but even a weedy floral had the effect of prettifying what was otherwise a graceful tribute to female power and desire.