Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis picked up a CFDA prize in June. Chalk it up to that accolade, but the designers were thinking along nostalgic lines this season. People who were around at Suno
's beginning five or so years ago will remember the kanga prints they sourced in Kenya. Those made a comeback for Spring, as did what Beatty called a generalized "maximalist African-safari Suno girl" vibe. Zebras trotted along the hem of a midi skirt and the torso of a wrap jacket, and khaki outfits were accessorized with deep-brimmed raffia visors. But maximalist was really the operative word. Every new print and texture was greeted enthusiastically by the crowd, not least of all by Tyson Chandler, who snapped iPhone photos as fast as the looks could come down the runway. (The Nicholas Kirkwood shower sandals earned some Instagrams of their own, too.)
But nostalgia was only part of the story. Beatty and Osterweis understand they can't count on prints forever. As New York fashion week begins, the pattern parade seems genuinely to be ending. And so, this season, the duo made a conscientious effort to incorporate more solids on the one hand and more textures on the other. Silhouettes seemed to be a bit more exaggerated, too. Floral jacquards in white and red versions shared the catwalk with laser-cut faux leather T-shirts, which vied for attention with a crop top and pencil skirt set (a popular silhouette for the designers) woven with gold foil. The designers had a lot of ideas and the collection had tons of verve. People left happy.