"I was thinking of the 1940s. And then I went to Mexico for a wedding, and everything changed," said Tia Cibani, who, with her Spring collection, aimed to blend the two ideas—the silhouettes of the 1940s, the colors of Tulum—into a cohesive offering.

She succeeded, for the most part, evoking the spirit of Frida Kahlo along the way. A simple sheath was made modern with a pixelated Aztec print, and a dotted jacquard jacket and matching pencil skirt were given a retro touch with a portrait collar and pleated peplum. That dotted jacquard popped up again and again throughout the collection—on a formfitting patchwork dress it added an almost preppy element.

But the real story here was color: Mint, pink, fuschia, gold, and azure blue mixed so well together in different prints and patterns. It was nice to see shades for Spring that aren't so saccharine. Where Cibani could have held back was in layering. One look, a pair of pedal pushers worn under a pencil skirt and topped off with a flouncy blouse and a flouncier cropped jacket looked bulky, even on a model. Separately, each piece was admirable: Given that Cibani's customers will buy individual items rather than whole looks, that's not such a bad thing.