Manuela Arcari's rigorous marriage of order and chaos deserves more attention than her Paris debut got today. Arcari has decided to try her hand in Paris after not getting much love in Milan, but it looked like the word on her relocation hadn't quite gotten out yet. Still, those who made it to the Palais des Beaux-Arts saw an impressive evolution of the designer's structured-yet-frayed aesthetic. Arcari claims that raw hems let a garment feel alive, in which case there was a whole lot of livin' on her Ter et Bantine catwalk today. The solid construction of the blinding white outfits with which the show opened fell away into a tangle of threads. "Perfect imperfection"—just like Arcari's notes claimed. It was striking in a slipdress, the join between a silken tank and a cotton skirt fraying. Imagine any of the outfits with a polished finish and you could see how technically accomplished Arcari is.

Still, that polished finish was nowhere to be seen. And the fraying 'n' flip-flops look became a tiny bit wearing after a while. It started to appear a little too tacked together. When a raw-edged turquoise tae kwon do outfit walked out onto the catwalk, it even took on a survivalist tinge. Kind of intriguing, but obviously not enough to make Paris sit up and take notice.