If a body meet a body, comin' thro' the rye…No, scratch that. When African meets prep coming through the rye. Designers are forever proposing new meetings and introductions to give structure to their collections, and for Addition, his second line, Thakoon Panichgul brought together the disparate strands of preppie staples and African draping and motifs. It's to his credit that, on the whole, the mash-up worked. Panichgul mixed the wrapped fabrics of some African garb with the kind of girls' school standard issue that he's riffed on so successfully in the past: His black mini shorts here came with an attached round of cotton eyelet fabric, draped over the waistband like a wrap. His tops were two sewn into one: Worn together, up, they looked layered; with one dangling down about the waist, they gave an asymmetric, cascading look.
Occasionally, this wrap act got too complicated for its own good: Trailing extra fabric isn't always flattering. And it was an unusual path to take in a season in which, for his main line, he spoke of "boiling things down." But Addition and Thakoon are complements as much as counterparts. And in fact, there were moments of assonance, too, even more than in previous seasons. The shirt dressing that was a major statement of the Thakoon Spring collection—not to mention many others on the New York runways—recurred here, too. A poplin shirtdress was given an added zing by the simple but judicious addition of an electric blue ribbed panel, like a belt. Thakoon showed it over a simple black boxing short to give the sportif touch that's a constant at Addition. And to finish it all off, the Addition collection's first dedicated shoes: a boyish pair at the meeting point of peep-toe oxfords and woven, African-inspired motifs. Comin' thro' the rye, comin' thro' the rye!
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