Hang on—what happened over the summer? Did Todd Lynn enroll in a refresher course? Because what else could explain the sudden raising of his game after some seven years in the biz? To be fair, for the bulk of the past decade the Canadian-born, London-based designer has been busy outfitting the best of rock 'n' roll—including Fergie and Will.i.am of the Black Eyed Peas, Rihanna, and Ronnie Wood—for the stage. But since his show last February, he's added to his signature styling with the inclusion of more tailored, precise, and, well, fresh looks—a word not usually associated with rock.

Of note were the elevated PJs in soft, stripey hues of green grass and creamy milk. Over the last couple of seasons, we've seen plenty of pajamas on the runway; what makes Lynn's special is how sharp they are—less dreamtime, more daywear. Backstage he said they were "based on the lining of men's suit tailoring, so kind of turned inside out—perfect for the work environment and, OK, less the stage."

Cobweb-lace looks were also a key theme, not just in black but in that fresh grass green again. Shimmery dresses with clever draping and some astonishingly cut tuxedo suits with raw, deconstructed edges proved that Lynn has moved on, but not too far. A performance by the band Wolf Alice was a loud reminder of his design roots.