"I felt like I'd been shouting for the past few seasons," Thomas Tait
said after his show today. "I wanted to do something quieter." Given that Tait held his last show in a car park and sent out looks so Formula One-inspired you could practically hear the roar of engines, it was easy to see where he was coming from. And, to be sure, his latest collection was a much more serene affair. But it was interesting to observe the ways Tait absorbed his recent obsessions with sport and performance into pretty, and indeed rather ladylike, clothes. Notably, he made great use of a paper-thin nylon, draping it around otherwise fitted tops and dresses. The look felt fresh. Elsewhere, the activewear influence was most visible in the show's varieties of anorak, the best of which were duster-length and featured parachute backs. At first, the active elements made for an odd pairing with the collection's other key motif, the brightly colored feathers that were stitched onto collars or floated out of the openings of sleeves. But a logic suggested itself: In the end, this was a show of lightness and things that take air. This time, Tait made his point sotto voce.