Layers were Olivier Theyskens' thing this season. "It's always a mystery to see the suitcases of my girlfriends; it's all these silly tank tops, but girls put it together. They love layering," he said backstage after his show. Not exactly a deep thought, but it got Theyskens' creative mojo going. This was a focused collection. It felt like he had a lot to say, about proportion and silhouette, first and foremost, but also about color.

The tank tops he mentioned backstage got a lot of play. Layered over looser tees, they created soft, peplumlike shapes. Below the waist, pieces were doubled up, too. Biker shorts peeked out from beneath the hems of basketball shorts, or longer skirts extended several inches below shorter ones. The tiered effect made the models look extra-long, a visual that was accentuated by their platform sandals. Real girls might just consider going through all those steps if it means looking like these runway giants. But if not, a ribbed knit sweater over a long, narrow skirt with multiple split seams produced the same willowy results.

Most of the collection came in shades of black, gray, and navy. Since arriving at Theory over three years ago, Theyskens has been fairly color-averse, so the end of the show felt like a real departure. Experimenting with sheer layers of silk, he showed delicate slipdresses over cropped tanks and floor-length skirts. Pink over pale blue and red, or orange over yellow and pink. They looked fresh and breezy. We hope that retailers take him up on the idea come Spring.