"Shape," Victoria Beckham pronounced before her show. When she launched her label five years ago, she was interested in the form of the body underneath the fabric, and presented dresses constructed to best highlight it. Clothes have been moving away from the body for the last couple of seasons. Beckham's early history as a designer makes her an unlikely proponent of the new look, but she made a believable case for herself today with rounded jackets; ruffle-hem, A-line tunics; and full, cropped trousers that were clean and sharp. The midi-skirts she did last season were replaced by apron minis, the diagonal hem on top revealing a spray of pleats below. Leggy!

If "cling" was her mantra way back when, now "crisp" is a more apt description. The collection was super-graphic and sporty—mostly black, white, and icy gray, with shots of fuchsia and brick red. Visual interest came courtesy of double-crepe triangles bonded to the organza base of button-downs and sleeveless tops. Elsewhere, she embellished a short-sleeve shirt with large overlapping rectangles of color. There were body-conscious harness dresses in the mix. They'll be snapped up by her fans. But it was the boyish tailoring of the cropped pants and the boxy tunics and vests that pushed the Victoria Beckham story forward.