Get sporty! Athletic influences are a big thing for Spring on the New York runways, and Vera Wang is the latest designer to insert herself into the action. This is the woman Hollywood calls on when it needs to cast a wedding-dress designer—did you know she has a SAG card? But don't forget she was also a competitive skater. Wang is naturally sporty, with an affinity for tees and stretch leggings. It served her well here. The beginning of the collection was an extended riff on elevated activewear, and it looked good. Wang did crop tops and bombers and second-skin dresses, only hers came in gazar, technical mesh, and silk gauze—all in black. The stretch-ponte dresses were anatomically seamed and collaged from panels of sheer mesh and net. Racy.

Although it would've been nice to see some of the first pieces amped up in color, she did turn on the brights (blue, yellow, and red) for the dressier part of the show. It's much harder to make a convincing case for athletic gear after dark, but Wang's bias-cut chiffon layers—racerback gown on top and slipdress underneath, with hand-painted swooshes on both to suggest speed and movement—had an ease that was appealing. That doesn't mean they were simple to construct; on the contrary, she must've driven her patternmakers crazy with the finale dress—a collage of chiffon, mesh, and corded lace that came off as quite effortless. Here and there, Wang tossed in a few cocktail dresses strewn with 3-D paillettes. They were more expected on a Wang runway, but they only served to slow this collection down.