Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear
October 01, 2013 Paris
Valentin Yudashkin just published a book of photos showcasing his earlier work—there was a cocktail party celebrating its release tonight. Many would be surprised to know that the Russian designer has been showing his collection in Paris since the early nineties. Yudashkin can't claim to enjoy the same kind of visibility that Russian talents of a younger generation, like Vika Gazinskaya and Ulyana Sergeenko, have been experiencing lately, even if he's doing a bang-up business at home. His niche is superflashy evening gowns. This season's showpiece—in gold with arabesques of three-dimensional embroideries—looked like it walked off the hood of a vintage Cadillac and onto the runway. For Spring, in addition to those extravagant long dresses, Yudashkin feels passionate about eighties-style shoulder pads, repeat prints in the mold of old Versace (they were modeled on Scythian jewelry), and eye-searing shades of yellow and blue. The eighties rematerialized on Saint Laurent's runway last night, it's true, but Hedi Slimane took a much grittier view of the era. If Yudashkin is as keen to expand into Europe and the United States as he claims to be, he'd be smart to study the ways in which the major labels are leaning and figure out how he can participate in that story. For the time being, he remains an outlier.