For Spring, Maria Cornejo had ideas about the desert, uniforms, and earthiness. "But not granola earthy," she said. No risk of that. Cornejo and her fans, who came out in colorful regalia today, are city girls through and through. The first coat out struck a sculptural note. Its spongy bonded cotton jersey in the color of sand almost stood at attention, like urban armor. A peek underneath, however, revealed a jumpsuit (long a Cornejo signature) that was draped and easy. The show's strength was its diversity.

A quick survey of the room revealed iPhone picture prints from previous seasons—beacons of brightness in the front rows. And there were more on the runway today, this time from a mirror exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. Manipulated on the computer, the images were fairly kaleidoscopic, if perhaps a shade predictable. Elsewhere, a boxy V-neck shirt and tapered trousers were decorated with a block print inspired by the texture and shape of a city pier. These felt newer for Cornejo (they're a big trend on other runways, as well), and so did the Egyptian stripe cotton that she used for a great-looking tunic, along with a fitted top worn with sarouel pants.

Cornejo was keen to use natural fabrics this season. For evening, she went with coated linen, and the strapless short-in-front, long-in-back dresses exuded unstudied cool. Also fresh were the plissé knit strapless tops suspended from grosgrain ribbons that she teamed with nearly sheer pj pants.