After years of presenting in Sydney, Australian label Zimmermann
took a major leap and made its official New York fashion week debut today. "It's a progression for our business and where I want to be in terms of creativity," said designer Nicky Zimmermann after her Spring runway show. Entitled Ringmaster, the new collection had a circus theme, which was fitting, considering how the scene at Lincoln Center often is. Zimmermann interpreted the concept literally, adding theatrical neck ruffles to diaphanous organza frocks with a harlequin diamond pattern, and incorporating a drippy black-and-white "mascara" print (an ode to melting stage makeup) into several looks, including the finale number worn by Ruby Jean Wilson. Although most girls wouldn't be caught dead in clothes with clown faces on them (some pieces made it into the mix), the lineup never came across as too costumey. Standouts included a graphic eyelet lace "cross-body" dress with arching—almost acrobatic—cutouts at the bust and torso, as well as a champagne-colored satin coat with a curved, asymmetric tail and a supple pink leather circle skirt. Although Zimmermann is best known for its swimsuits, the racy bikinis seemed out of place here at times; but overall, things are looking up for the Down Under brand stateside.