One thing you can say for sure about Jacquemus
: The brand's attitude of youthful exuberance is not affected. Simon Porte Jacquemus launched the label four years ago, when he was just nineteen; the young women he designs for are his peers as much as they're his muses. That might account for the realism of his clothes. This season, Jacquemus was spinning a tale of a girl who goes to visit the seaside town of La Grande Motte, in the South of France, and his geometric construction reflected the fifties-era architecture of the place. But he cut those looks in cotton, and everything was wearable. He is not a designer getting lost in his concept. Nor is he a designer trying too hard to make a big editorial statement—his sleeve silhouettes had a touch of Céline about them, which made them feel au courant, but it was just a suggestion. The debt wasn't onerous. In any case, the playful tees and graphic sweatshirts didn't look like anything other than the kind of thing the peppy Jacquemus girl is going to want to have in her wardrobe come spring.