Fresh out of the gates, Rosie Assoulin
emerged at the front of the pack of new designers to watch this week following her impressive Resort debut, which was picked up by retailers including Moda Operandi, Fivestory, and the Webster. Her Spring presentation (which drew a crowd of top editors, buyers, and street-style stars) proved that her initial success wasn't just a case of beginner's luck. Architectural volumes and modern eveningwear separates were the takeaways from Assoulin's premier collection, and she expanded on those ideas here while introducing more color to the mix (after sticking to a predominantly black and white palette last season), which better suited her vibrant personality. A carnation pink strapless top with an elegant side cascade was paired with bright green culottes, for example, and ultra-wide-leg trousers were decorated with thousands of tough grommets in every shade of the rainbow. Assoulin hand-painted bold primary stripes onto a standout sporty gown that she called her "Cars
dress" as a tribute to her son's favorite movie. It was equipped with a zipper in back that could be adjusted as desired to release or restrict a dramatic train.
While the lineup was full of statement-makers like those, Assoulin didn't skimp on daytime-appropriate ideas, either. A sharply tailored tuxedo suit featuring a sarilike sash that wrapped around the torso felt like a modern proposal, and relaxed trousers double-belted both at the hips and at the natural waistline are the kind of thing you'd catch Rihanna wearing in the streets. All in all, the collection suggested a promising future for the young designer.