Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear
October 29, 2013 Paris
First things first: Kim Trager and Lowell Delaney are nuts. Totally bonkers. One hundred percent crazy. Crazy like a fox, you might say: The byzantine tales this London-based duo spin to inspire their collections reveal quite a bit of cunning, in that the tales allow them to integrate a lot of disparate ideas into their clothes. Clothes that are, by the way, executed with an extraordinary amount of polish. For their third collection, Trager and Delaney concocted a story of an orphan in Germany who eventually finds her way into a shady scene in L.A., and then somehow Aristotle Onassis and Majorca are involved. But never mind. Pieces like a jacket with rubberized yarn heat-pressed onto laser-cut suede didn't require a backstory to be compelling. Meanwhile, the sixties-style shifts had a real grace, while the brand's low-slung trousers and cropped vest tops captured, in the most exact way possible, the look and attitude of the mid/late nineties, without aping any one reference too precisely. Tie-front blouses and matador-inspired cape jackets managed a similar trick, conjuring Spanish Majorca. The unifying elements here were the designers' graphic application of color and their zeal for texture; even the simplest materials were well chosen, like the meltingly soft suede. And if you wanted a clue to the crazy, you only had to look at Trager Delaney's loopy seasonal print, a brand signature: Somewhere in there, a girl was coming of age. Aristotle Onassis was involved somehow. It doesn't matter.