June 24, 2014 Milan
This was an unabashed collection layered with meaning and saturated with color. The designer said he wanted to reinvent the house's Columnar look, defined by boxy shapes on top and tapered, slightly cropped trousers below, around which other markers of casually elegant men's dressing were assembled: varsity-style jackets, polo shirts, Bermuda shorts. Reliable houndstooth plaids, herringbone weaves, and Prince of Wales checks featured prominently.
Now, about those saturated colors, so brazen in their searing tones of fuchsia, electric blue, and acid green, creating intricate, iridescent floral patterns tightly held together on silks and knits like the pieces of a puzzle. Mullane collaborated with L.A.-based artist James Welling, often cited by designers, to achieve the triple-exposure effect. Photographer Collier Schorr, another favorite among fashion circles, created the short films screened at the launch. Evocative of celebrity stalking—as in secretly taping actors through bedroom windows—they set a vaguely forbidden, slightly illicit tone that lent a dose of drama to the romance.