June 22, 2014 Milan
These were clothes that had clearly been given a lot of thought, but somewhere along the way the message became muddled. Opulent fabrics in handsome dusty shades were held back by cuts that neither looked forward nor back. Matching shirts and ties were a clever touch, and some of the lighter-weight jackets were simply outstanding. Belted blazers, however, struck a wrong note, as did fluid short shorts. The show notes cited the "modern flaneur," and therein perhaps lies the problem. It's not clear who is, or aspires to be, a modern flaneur.