June 22, 2014 Milan
Nature was the theme here, according to the press release, but designer Federico Curradi didn't entirely nail it. The fabrics, surprisingly, were all natural. Why surprisingly? Because much of the cotton, wool, silk, and linen had been treated to look synthetic. There was an outdoorsy vibe, but it was more delinquent mountaineer than nature boy. Drawcords cinched just about every opening, including, strangely, shorts hems and sleeve cuffs. An anorak came adorned with patches reminiscent of the popular North Face fleeces of the nineties. Boot gaiters even made an appearance.
When the collection didn't veer toward the superfluous, there were moments that were eye-catching enough without the extraneous details. The roomy, pleated trousers and shorts looked modern and cool. The paneled parka with zip-off mid-length waist piece was inventive and tech in just the right way. It would have been nice to see more clothes like that.