There were two ways to look at Katie Eary's Dallas Rodeo collection for Spring. Either you took it for what it was—a fun romp with a bunch of cowboy shirts and seventies psychedelia—or you got annoyed that that's all it was: a group of cool-looking guys in denim and sunset-colored tops.

Eary's approach to her clothes is straightforward, perhaps too much so. Backstage after the show, she recalled how she and her boyfriend would get up early to catch the latest episodes of Breaking Bad, and she became obsessed with the thought of who the new cowboy is. Then she watched Dallas Buyers Club, and that's how the vintage-y seventies vibe came in. "I'm just a bit magpie-esque," Eary declared. Jeans had a faded and worn look but were kept skinny rather than flared. They made a pleasing base for the designer's vivid tops, where cacti, fish bones, and peace signs competed for attention. The allure of Eary's designs rests with her use of color, which was delicious—pink, purple, and orange nuances were reflected in the multicolored mirror lenses of the models' aviator shades.

So who is the new cowboy? Well, he's a guy who likes his fringed Western jacket fused with the more modern biker jacket, and he has a fondness for tight, psychedelic turtlenecks worn under his rodeo-worthy shirts. It was in these less cowboy-ish moments that Eary's vision of the modern rancher shone through. Unfortunately it was a brief glimpse, and one was left longing for something a bit more developed and even wicked. In fact, one of the delights of Eary's previous collections has been their baroque wackiness. This outing, in comparison, just felt a bit more Milan than London.