June 15, 2014 London
With this lineup, Roach made more explicit the connection between his own sense of uniform dressing and actual military garb. There was the khaki, obviously, and the sublimated military emblems—the circles and stripes—and the "quick release" boots. There was also the theme "Protect," made manifest in the hooded outerwear. But the most telling thing in the whole collection might have been the "LRSS" signifier. Roach claims he's obsessed with branding. That's the mark of a driven man, which means that, at the very least, it's going to be interesting to see how he reconciles his maximal ambition with his minimal aesthetic.