Lee Roach has always loved the precise monotony of a man in uniform. That was the strength of his initial offering. But even he acknowledges the limitations of such a pitch, so every season he looks for ways to stretch it…a fabric, a detail, a color. In a way, Roach has made it easy for himself. You couldn't get much more minimal than his first collection, with jackets that wrapped and tied to close. So when he added a snap closing, as he did here, it was practically a revelation. Likewise, accents of orange and red were a transfusion in Roach's sea of sobriety.

With this lineup, Roach made more explicit the connection between his own sense of uniform dressing and actual military garb. There was the khaki, obviously, and the sublimated military emblems—the circles and stripes—and the "quick release" boots. There was also the theme "Protect," made manifest in the hooded outerwear. But the most telling thing in the whole collection might have been the "LRSS" signifier. Roach claims he's obsessed with branding. That's the mark of a driven man, which means that, at the very least, it's going to be interesting to see how he reconciles his maximal ambition with his minimal aesthetic.