McQ Alexander McQueen
June 28, 2014 Milan
In the label's second line, McQ, presented in a showroom setting, the late designer's favored themes of disruption and destruction became apparent in a compact array of artfully shredded and intentionally weather-beaten wares. The notion of squatting was big, seen in unsettling prints by the U.K. illustrator Fergus Purcell; concert tees had made-up names for legal reasons, adding to their mysteriousness. A silver foil-effect knit exuded a home-distressed quality, and a specially treated crinkled tee came with a bag to avoid any loss of crinkle in the washing machine. Some looks, like patchwork sweaters, were suitably slouchy and droopy, while others laid flat with an army-surplus crispness. Black sandals and clunky mosh-pit boots rounded out the underground appeal of the collection.
There's no flaw to be found in these clothes; they're perfect distillations of the house codes. Maybe too perfect, but Burton isn't afraid to push buttons. Whereas the keffiyeh scarf as a fashion reference is fairly played out at this point, Burton diced and spliced it in novel ways, rendering it in the house's signature razor-blade motif to unnerving effect.