Phillip Lim, coming off a well-received Target collaboration, delivered a smart men's show today that hit many of the tropes that are suddenly so de rigueur, such as a gently jarring clash of sport and suit references. 3.1 Phillip Lim isn't usually the first to push into new terrain, but despite a well-honed aversion to the outlandish and impolitic, the label nonetheless floated a few excellent ideas.

These included coat collars that were turned in on the neck, giving the oft-neglected jugular new interest; drawstring jumpsuits—one in a quiet pinstripe—that approached essential; and a lilac hooded parka with a matching two-button vest, both with black hardware. A repeated Prince of Wales and soft check pattern helped unite the elements, sundry though they were, and made up for a shimmery striped pajama top that came off as drowsy.

Several years ago Lim restaged his women's collection atop Beijing's Forbidden City, culminating in a finale of astounding cheongsams that had been deconstructed and reconstructed with a Western edge. Here, he showed abbreviated kimonos apparently based on a men's cheongsam, or changshan, but they lacked pep and radiated a demure vibe that seemed at odds with the rest of the clothes. Still, this was a solid outing for Lim.