In the decade or so since Trussardi suffered the sudden loss of its third-generation director and patron of the arts, Nicola Trussardi, and his son four years later, the family-owned label has intensified its cultural initiatives. The Fondazione Nicola Trussardi was launched with the goal of preserving historic landmarks in Milan and, more broadly, bringing art into people's daily lives.

It's out of this commitment to the arts that the Spring men's theme—jazz—came to be. Gaia Trussardi was particularly taken with the zoot suit, updating the three-piece classic of the Jazz Age with trimmer proportions and subtle stripes, pinstripes and otherwise. Of course, a zoot suit isn't for everyone, no matter how tame, so she also incorporated elements of workwear, like cargo jackets and denim jeans with prominent selvedge. Leather, the house's specialty, was used sparingly, with the notable exception of an all-leather, four-pocket jacket-and-pants combo in the color of brass, appropriately.

Individually, many pieces will fit into a man's wardrobe just fine, but the collection as a whole was neither here nor there. It felt underdeveloped, even lethargic. Which is a shame, considering all the energetic ideas percolating through menswear right now.