Umit Benan played tennis as a kid, four times a week for ten years. He wanted to turn professional, until life got in the way. But when he called his show "Tennis Club de Cartagena, Colombia," it was scarcely Wimbledon, opening at the same time as the men's shows in Paris, he was thinking about. In typical Benan style, he had a dark, cinematic narrative in mind: the likes of Colombian coke czar Pablo Escobar on a tennis court, supremely powerful guys who go to a tennis club where they can wear shorts and play badly (both concessions to powerlessness, as far as Benan was concerned) in complete privacy. The meaty gents on Benan's catwalk, cast from the streets of Paris, looked like real bad boys as opposed to the pallid wannabes who dominated shows this season.

Tennis might have seemed like a way to put a new spin on the sportswear theme that dominates menswear for Spring 2015. Is there one designer who didn't show a tracksuit this season or make trainers the shoe of choice? Benan was no exception, but his new collection also offered a refresher course in the qualities that make him a quiet force in men's fashion. He can cut a very appealing suit; he also knows how to twist something as basic as a polo shirt so it looks fresh, and there's a brazen sensuality about his clothes that gives their wearer a reassuring amount of credit for self-confidence. All those qualities were here today, along with Benan's usual artful reversibles (the suede blouson may be the best yet), canny sporty detailing like the elastic bands at wrists and snaps at ankles, and an absolutely individual color palette. According to Benan, his switch from Milan to Paris has brought "more luxury, more volume, more elegance" to his work. Fortunately, none of this has interfered with his ability to tell a story.