June 29, 2014 Paris
Tennis might have seemed like a way to put a new spin on the sportswear theme that dominates menswear for Spring 2015. Is there one designer who didn't show a tracksuit this season or make trainers the shoe of choice? Benan was no exception, but his new collection also offered a refresher course in the qualities that make him a quiet force in men's fashion. He can cut a very appealing suit; he also knows how to twist something as basic as a polo shirt so it looks fresh, and there's a brazen sensuality about his clothes that gives their wearer a reassuring amount of credit for self-confidence. All those qualities were here today, along with Benan's usual artful reversibles (the suede blouson may be the best yet), canny sporty detailing like the elastic bands at wrists and snaps at ankles, and an absolutely individual color palette. According to Benan, his switch from Milan to Paris has brought "more luxury, more volume, more elegance" to his work. Fortunately, none of this has interfered with his ability to tell a story.