June 17, 2014 London
Mazhar rose from the U.K. garage scene eight years ago, and the fierce tribalism of that world still defines him. The physicality of garage, its furious branding and co-opting of high-performance sportswear details, energized his show. The way he incorporated backpack details, for instance, was as ingenious as the Bully cap, which was—and still is—Mazhar's highly original signature piece. But with this collection, he also latched on to the show-off-iness of a garage crowd to great effect. He claimed he was thinking about the richness, the excess of royalty, so pristine white sportiness was steadily suffused with royal blue and gold and metallic jacquards that looked like brocade. Mazhar had one reference point for his appetite for opulence: Henry VIII. Now that's what you call an original thinker.