As you can probably tell from the ads, the new Sherlock Holmes movie does away with the Victorian sleuth as we know him: Goodbye, deerstalker and calabash pipe; hello, skinny suits and light-speed fisticuffs. The game is afoot, and Robert Downey, Jr.'s version of the clever inspector is a pit-fighting, fast-thinking superhero.

"I thought it could be rebooted and dusted off," director Guy Ritchie said at last night's Lincoln Center premiere. He was referring, in part, to the film's winking humor and dandyish touches: At one point, Holmes and Watson (Jude Law) get into a tiff about a waistcoat. Downey, for one, embraced the film's fashion element: "What I really liked is that Jude is wearing all these starched collars, so the more kind of done-up and stiff he looked, the more I'd be throwing a scarf over an oversized shirt or something like that," he said. "It was all about contrast."

The star showed up sporting winter-ready wingtip boots and Ralph Lauren tweeds, whereas more than a few bare-shouldered ladies (including Rachel McAdams and Blake Lively) had to dash in to escape the cold. Emma Heming, who arrived with husband Bruce Willis, wasn't afraid to linger, though. What qualities was she looking for in the Holmes update? "Fashion," she said, cozying up against Willis' thick overcoat. "Suave, like my husband."

— Darrell Hartman