If you’ve always dreamed of touring Coco Chanel’s apartment on 31 rue Cambon, you’re in luck. Director Sam Taylor-Johnson, who just wrapped Fifty Shades of Grey, recently took up residence inside the designer’s home to shoot Second Floor, a set of 45 images that will debut at London’s Saatchi Gallery in September. According to The Telegraph, the exhibit will be everything we could hope for—and more. “Shooting at Coco Chanel’s apartment was an unexpectedly absorbing experience,” said Taylor-Johnson. “The essence of Chanel is firmly rooted there in all of her possessions, and I truly believe that her spirit and soul still inhabit the second floor.” We get pretty spiritual when we talk about Chanel, too.
Save for a few special guests, the apartment has long been a mystery to the public, so it’s going to be exciting to see Coco’s chandelier with rock-crystal camellias; leather-bound editions of Shakespeare, Voltaire, and Byron; and the white satin armchair in which she sat for a Horst photograph in 1937 (above). “The apartment is beautifully stylish,” said Taylor-Johnson. “It feels like she had meticulously chosen every object.” And in case you were wondering—no. None of those curated objects are whips.
Second Floor will be on view September 12 to 22 at the Saatchi Gallery, London, and will be accompanied by a book.
Every day, Style.com’s editors reveal their current obsessions—and where to buy them. Check out today’s pick, below.
I walk by the Issey Miyake Pleats Please store on Mercer Street every time I go to Physique57. Usually I don’t make it more than once a week (Sunday, 9 a.m.), but between Memorial Day and Labor Day, the class is a cherished late Friday afternoon activity. The extra pass-by has given me a lot of time to contemplate Miyake’s Bao Bao bags. Lately I’ve become especially keen on this platinum Prism tote. Big enough for my workout clothes plus my everyday essentials, it’s also remarkably lightweight. Nothing kills a Summer Friday buzz or an exercise high faster than a hot, heavy leather bag.
Issey Miyake Bao Bao Platinum Tote, $1,295. Buy it now.
Zac Posen never fails to give a great quote (or three), so we were thrilled to discover his “Ask Me Anything” forum on Reddit yesterday. Fans were invited to ask “almost” anything and everything for 30 minutes, with topics ranging from Posen’s design aesthetic to the trends he hates (adult hipsters) to his favorite dessert (it’s pâte â choux). Learn the designer’s secrets to success, happiness, and more, below.
Banning trends is cultural castration, but adult hipsters have gotta go:
“Normally I don’t believe in banning any trends. Banning a trend is like neutering culture. But at the end of the day, we do have a choice not to be lemmings. Adult hipsters need to end. No flip-flops in an urban environment—they’re unhygienic. And generally, affluent or ‘rich kids’ dressing poor, dirty, and disheveled is reverse snobism and, quite frankly, really boring. What else? Shoes that a woman can’t walk in, atrocious—no, unforgivable. Too much public skin. If you’re going to wear that much skin, you might as well become a nudist. But make sure to wear sunscreen.”
Pre-Fall is to fashion as fresh fruit is to Whole Foods:
“Fashion [has] become so global that the seasons really don’t mean what they used to. The demand for more deliveries has accelerated. Essentially, think of [Pre-Fall as] that beautiful fresh-picked tomato sitting on the supermarket shelf. Who wants the tomato on sale?”
Fashion is a team sport:
“Teamwork. Teamwork. Anybody who says they create on their own and build a business off of it is telling big fibs…Karl Lagerfeld has referred to being a fashion designer in today’s world as being an Olympic athlete.”
Lilacs + Tibetan singing bowls + short films = happiness:
“The fruity-tooty answer [to the happiest thing I can think of] would be: surrounded in a garden where the walls were completely made of fresh lilacs, in a bathtub filled with very intense sea salt, harpsichord music or Tibetan singing bowls, maybe playing some saws. And the reality of the happiest thing would be to be able to entertain friends and family and people who are close to me for a weekend in which we did a creative project together. I love collaborating and making short films; maybe one day it will lead to a feature.”
Dresses have feelings, too:
“Each [dress] has its own iconic identity. I can’t pick favorites, because then they would get jealous of each other.
Shayne Oliver built a brand, and now he’s using the momentum (and resources) from his recent CFDA nomination and 100,000-euro LVMH Special Prize to expand his vision. “We’ve had the exposure,” Oliver told Style.com from his new, unfinished office/atelier/retail space on the Lower East Side, “so now we’re teaching the customer how to engage with the brand.”
For upcoming seasons, Hood by Air as we know it will be divided into three parts—Hood by Air (wardrobe pieces) and HBA (printed pieces), both to be shown in New York, and an artisanal collection to be shown in Paris, which Oliver isn’t ready to reveal too much about just yet. “It will be Hood by Air for sure. It’s just really special,” he said. “And it will be a presentation as opposed to being a show, definitely meant to be intimate and one-on-one. It’s going to push the direction of this whole season. It’ll be the fire starter.”
In addition, there’s a very real possibility that brick-and-mortar retail is on the horizon. “VFILES was acting like a retail space for us, in a sense,” Oliver says. “Now we have the space to do it on our own. Our energy as opposed to having it be embedded in a VFILES situation. They’re growing their own culture, and we’ll be growing our own as well.” He’s already got plans for how he will strategically distribute certain products. “This space here will also be used as a platform to teach the customer. For instance, there will be certain styles, like basics that we think might be too basic for us to sell on our own, so it’s not like you’re going to a department store and you see a T-shirt and it’s cool—you come here and you engage with the moment, the feeling, and you get to be in that space in order to grab that simple T-shirt.”
The Pre-Spring 2015 collection, seen exclusively here, is a precursor to what will be shown in New York during fashion week. Digital prints, block letters, and stripes prevail, and the wardrobe pieces—shirts and jeans—are elaborately constructed experiments in deconstructed basics. The footwear, done in collaboration with Forfex, borrows details from Oliver’s favorite Nikes, Timberlands, and GBX boots. If previous collections were perceived as unisex, this offering is decidedly more in line with menswear.
All brands evolve over time, but Oliver says he feels a responsibility—to his fans and to the fashion industry that has supported him. “It was a passion project before, and now it’s a business,” says Oliver. “I don’t want to let anyone down.”