Just when we thought Paris had maxed out on its supermodel sightings, Freja Beha Erichsen caused us to audibly gasp when she opened Louis Vuitton on the final day of shows. Sure, seeing Gisele Bündchen close Balenciaga and the high-wattage cast at Balmain earlier in the week were definite highlights, but for true model obsessives, it’s difficult to top a surprise appearance by Erichsen, who has been absent from the runways since Spring ’12. Among the other noteworthy ladies in the LV lineup were Liya Kebede, Maggie Rizer, Marte Mei van Haaster (who took a break this season to focus on school), and scads of newcomers including closer Rianne von Rompaey and Julia Bergshoeff. While Bergshoeff also walked Miu Miu later that day, we wish she had done more shows and taken a less exclusive route. Her only other Fall outing was Proenza Schouler.
There were plenty more major modeling moments during the second half of PFW. Miranda Kerr turned up at Sonia Rykiel of all places—the brand stepped things up this time around by enlisting stylist Katie Grand and casting director Anita Bitton. Elsewhere, Sasha Pivovarova made a lovely cameo at Chloé, and Kendall Jenner convinced us to consider her a serious model at Givenchy and Chanel. But even doing those big shows won’t quite earn Jenner a spot on our forthcoming top new models list. The competition in that category is steep, with fresh faces like Lexi Boling, Ola Rudnicka, Waleska Gorczevski, and Harleth Kuusik each walking more than fifty shows. All in all, a very strong season for veterans and promising rookies alike.
Since launching her line in 2010, New York-based designer Zana Bayne has been blurring the lines between clothing, accessories, and bondage-tinged harnesses at warp speed. Fresh off her New York fashion week debut, she jetted to Paris, her home away from home, to present her collection to buyers.
“The whole city is black and gold. When I got back to Paris, I thought, Oh, so that’s where this collection came from,” said the raven-haired designer of her Fall ’14 outing, Ornamentalist. The lineup was inspired by fifties-era images from L’Officiel and featured black and croc-embossed cowhide and gold embellishments.
Belts became bras, or were elongated to look like skirts, sometimes with extreme accentuated waists. Some pieces were adorned with tassels, big buckles, or extra rivets, and a lingerie feel was created via elastic details and garter belts.
While in Paris, Bayne welcomed Rei Kawakubo to her showroom—Bayne’s leathers are currently sold at Comme des Garçons in New York, and she’s preparing for a project with London’s Dover Street Market in the fall. Bayne’s wares, which are priced between $150 and $1,500, are also carried by such stockists as Opening Ceremony, Selfridges in London, and Paris’ Mise en Cage.
Bayne aims to clothe more than just fashion’s edgy avant-garde. In fact, the ambitious 25-year-old, who has crafted pieces for both Prabal Gurung and Lorde, is aiming for sartorial world domination. She is expanding her handbag line and splitting her collection into two: the handcrafted runway range Zana Bayne Collection, and Zana Bayne Originals, which will offer seasonless pieces from the archive.
“It’s not just for the cool kids. There are pieces for all sorts of silhouettes. There are garter belts, full-body pieces, and really delicate items as well,” she explained. “I like to make sure there’s a variety.” Bayne hopes there’s a little something in her collections for everyone—even for her dream client, Michelle Obama.
California native Michelle Campbell Mason was an actress and model in a previous life—her first break was on CSI, as a hooker with good intentions who meets a gruesome fate. (“My parents loved that one,” she laughed.)
Things slowed down at one point, Mason said, and she started to lose it. But after inheriting a bunch of jewelry from her grandmother, she picked up a pencil and began to sketch. “They were a little too antique to wear, so I wanted to create something that would complement them, something a little more clean and to the point,” she explains.
Three years on, Campbell’s floating rings and major cuffs have made waves everywhere from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus to Shopbop.com. This fall, Campbell is taking her first step into fine jewelry with a collection that builds on her signature floaty, classic modernism. Her massive honeycomb cuff was the inspiration for a number of new styles, while a darker-than-usual theme in black and white diamonds on white gold conveys an ongoing fascination with architecture, particularly what she finds in her new home base, New York. “This is meant to play off the contemporary [pieces],” she noted. “We all wear fine jewelry—just not by itself. It’s really clean, easy to pile on and layer,” she explained. And that, in a nutshell, is how crime TV’s loss became fashion’s gain.
Fringe is one of the biggest trends for spring, and I still haven’t had a chance to step into it. Ever since I saw Tamara Mellon’s presentation back in 2013, her leather fringe skirt has been on my wish list. Today, Mellon is launching her brand’s e-commerce site, and I finally got a chance to add this little number to my shopping cart.
Tamara Mellon leather fringe skirt, $895, Buy it now