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subscribe to style file blog via RSSAlexander Wang’s OBJECTS Of Desire
February 10, 2012
Fourteen new stores in Asia by year’s end is just the beginning of Alexander Wang’s expansion plans. Style.com got an exclusive sneak peek at his new eight-piece lifestyle collection, OBJECTS, which will make its debut in goody bags gifted to lucky editors, buyers, and celebs in the front row at his show on Saturday. “I’ve always had a fascination with home, but wanted to take it step by step,” Wang said over the phone in between fittings. “If I can’t start with a couch, at least I can start with a coaster.” In addition to the black mock croc coasters, there’s a matching embossed leather lighter, letter box, junk box, and playing card case, as well as a smoked glass ashtray and a leather-bound notebook with metal corners. The line’s hot ticket, though, is a blackened steel bike chain with a mock croc-covered brass lock. All-weather it’s not, but it’s undeniably cool. The line retails from $29 to $150 and will be available at Wang’s Grand Street store and on his Web site come Monday.
In another bit of other news, Wang’s Spring 2012 campaign video will have its own debut this Saturday as an installation under the High Line on 24th Street between 10th and 11th avenues. Directed by James Lima, starring Liya Kebede, and featuring music by Azealia Banks, it’s meant, the designer says, to evoke “arcade video games and car crashes.” The cool factor here is that it will be projected not just on walls but on specially designed windshields and windows on cars parked on 24th Street. We’ve got a teaser here.
tags: Alexander Wang, Azealia Banks, Grand Street, James Lima, Liya Kebede, OBJECTS, Spring 2012
Cushnie Et Ochs’ NYFW Diary
February 9, 2012
In the leadup to New York fashion week, designers go through hundreds of behind-the-scenes preparations to arrive at the completed show. This NYFW, we’ve sweet-talked a few of them into giving us an exclusive peek behind the curtain as they cast, score, style, and ready their presentations. First up: Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs.
“Inspiration images, a lot of which were from Pedro Almodóvar’s The Skin I Live In.”
“Posing for quick pre-fashion week photo op.”
“A preview of what will be on the runway—metallic stretch leather!”
tags: Carly Cushnie, Cushnie et Ochs, Michelle Ochs, NYFW
Weather Appropriate
February 9, 2012
After weeks of unseasonably mild weather, the temperatures have dropped in New York in the past few days. And although designer Luis Fernandez is a Miami native, he was on the same page. For his Fall ‘12 menswear collection, the Number:Lab designer and CFDA Fashion Incubator (class of 2014) participant was inspired by ice climbing, glacial hiking, and Buckminster Fuller’s “ephemeralization” theory—essentially, doing more with less. The latter academic nod seems to come with the territory; Fernandez is a former architect and likes the clean aesthetics of Martin Margiela, Dries van Noten, and Tomas Maier. But it wasn’t quite the clinical iciness of, say, nineties minimalism. For one, he played with color and texture. The opening number (pictured), an overcoat and trouser ensemble, was cleanly rendered but in a ripe, rich red. Pants were a highlight, and one sharply tailored pair was spliced with gray charcoal in front and navy in back. Another tweed pair had an attractive seam that ran down the front of the leg. Later on, a wool plaid duffel coat in gray stood out. The fabric was given a polyurethane glaze and accessorized by sporty toggle closures, which gave a modern air without feeling too kitschy. Taken as a whole, Fernandez was most effective when the focus was on tailoring and less so when he veered into sporty territory—some pieces had enough visible zippers to be distracting.
tags: CFDA Fashion Incubator, Dries Van Noten, Fall '12, Luis Fernandez, Martin Margiela, Number:Lab, Tomas Maier
Knit Wit
February 9, 2012
Lindsay Degen is not your average fashion girl. The knitwear designer, who presented her first full collection yesterday (she showed a small lingerie capsule last NYFW), started out making large-scale knit art installations while studying at Rhode Island School of Design, then moved on to do more wearable pieces after various collaborations and encouragement from industry veterans like VPL’s Victoria Bartlett. But a quick glance at Degen’s latest offerings reassures that she has in no way compromised her avant-garde point of view. Degen dubbed this season Ask Tell to honor the repeal of Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell—she is professedly “all about celebrating individuality and being open.”
In keeping with the military theme, Degen did her own take on WWI battleship “dazzle” camouflage, taking her color palette from Communist propaganda posters. The result was a lineup that carried over cheeky items from Spring, like leggings with two well-placed cutouts on the bum and knit glove necklaces. But there were also more realistic items this time around, like cargo-inspired pants slashed at the knees (the designer was sporting them) and an abundance of sweater crop tops. Never one to take herself too seriously, Degen kept things playful with hyper-pigmented pastel “war paint” makeup and super-chunky platform sneakers that she embellished with yarn.
tags: Degen, Fall '12, Lindsay Degen, Victoria Bartlett
The World Of Duro
February 9, 2012
“For me, fashion, art, music, textiles, film, etc., it’s all very intertwined. This is basically a collage of things I like, which is what my work is about,” explains London-based designer Duro Olowu of his New York art show and pop-up shop, opening today at Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn’s Salon 94 Freeman Alley gallery.
In the mix, there’s photos by Juergen Teller (Olowu and the photographer have collaborated on various shoots) and art by Laurie Simmons on display, as well as an eclectic selection of books, records, and clothing for sale. “We have limited-edition pieces from my Spring collection, vintage jewelry from Pierre Cardin, textiles from couture fabric makers, and a T-shirt collaboration I did with Tory Burch,” says the designer. Proceeds from the T-shirt (”a mash of prints by both of us,” says Olowu), $75, will go to the charity of their choice. This temporary New York shop is likely to lead to something more permanent in the near future: “I have been looking for a space in New York—this would be exactly the kind of store I would have.”
Duro Olowu’s pop-up shop is open through March 5 at Salon 94, 1 Freeman Alley, NYC.
tags: Duro Olowu, Jeanne Greenberg, Pierre Cardin, Salon 94 Freeman Alley gallery, Tory Burch
Taylor Made
February 9, 2012
At her first-ever presentation, Tanya Taylor told Style.com she designs for “girls who are leaders, but are unaware of who is looking at them.” With the help of a few couches, Persian rugs, cordial tea service (”we wanted drinks, but it is 11 a.m., after all”), and classical music, Taylor transformed the raw, industrial Exit Art space into a proper parlor, which suited the preppy and ladylike yet eccentric aesthetic of her work. She described the collection as being inspired by “canny woodpeckers.” Medallion sweaters came layered underneath a drop-waist jumper dress in a matching, inverted print. Wearable pieces, like a butternut-colored motorcycle jacket in sturdy angora and a wispy herringbone jumpsuit, demonstrate that Taylor isn’t just scratching a creative itch, but is actually looking to take her clothes to the bank (she studied finance at McGill University before changing career directions after picking up a $49 sewing machine on a whim). Naturally, she had a bit of seasoned help from Cara Croninger, who created the singular, statement resin earrings, and a shoe collaboration with Aperlaï shoes. The dense turnout and enthusiastic response signal Taylor stands out among the crush of newcomers this week.
tags: Cara Croninger, Exit Art, Fall '12, Tanya Taylor
Karlie Kloss Could Be Skipping NYFW, Moss’ W Shoot, And More…
February 9, 2012
Rumor has it that top model Karlie Kloss will be absent from runway shows during New York fashion week. CNN’s fashion reporter Alina Cho tweeted that Kloss is skipping New York for a “big opportunity.” [Racked]
Kate Moss is the cover star of W’s March issue. The Steven Klein-lensed images show “Good Kate” and “Bad Kate.” [W]
Duckie Brown has joined forces with Perry Ellis on a designer collection set to debut at fashion week in September. Of the partnership, Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver tell WWD, “Perry Ellis is synonymous with classic-yet-updated men’s apparel and the brand has a vibrant legacy. This opportunity has enormous potential and we are looking forward to bringing a new articulation of that legacy to retail.” [WWD]
In an effort spearheaded by Diane von Furstenberg and the CFDA, designers are pledging not to cast models under age 16 to walk in their runway shows. The initiative has gained some momentum, but model agencies and designers alike acknowledge that there is still some progress to be made. [NYT]
tags: CFDA, Daniel Silver, Diane von Furstenberg, Duckie Brown, Karlie Kloss, Kate Moss, Perry Ellis, Steven Cox
Backstage With Bauer
February 9, 2012
The likes of Constance Jablonski, Thakoon Panichgul, and Magnus Berger all turned out to the New Museum last night to celebrate photographer Anna Bauer’s new tome Anna Bauer Backstage. Check out our full coverage of the Interview and DeLeon-sponsored party, co-hosted by Tim Blanks and Fabien Baron, here. Below, an exclusive video shot at the event.
tags: Anna Bauer, Anna Bauer Backstage, Constance Jablonski, Magnus Berger, New Museum, Thakoon Panichgul, Tim Blanks
Melissa Arrives In Soho
February 9, 2012
“Plastic fantastic” was the theme at Melissa’s Soho flagship store opening last night, where the Brazilian shoe label fêted its arrival stateside, drawing the likes of Marc Jacobs, Lorenzo Martone, and Alessandra Ambrosio. Dubbed Galeria Melissa, the Greene Street shop opened its doors with a riot of acid tones thanks to the São Paulo-based label’s spring collection and psychedelic multimedia installations by art collective Assume Vivid Astro Focus (AVAF). “They wanted a color explosion, which is basically what I do,” said AVAF founder and Brazilian artist Eli Sudbrack, whose latest project was conceiving Gaga’s Workshop at Barneys. Referring to the jelly sandals, he said, “They’re like performance art that people can wear on the street.” Party guest Ryan McNamara openly coveted the warriorlike styles from Gareth Pugh, exclaiming, “I just did a piece that was all about Greek gladiators—I wish I had these!”
Recently re-energized by collaborations with Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Jason Wu, the 40-year-old purveyor of candy-colored togs could be considered the ne plus ultra in plastic footwear, forgoing animal leathers for sustainable synthetics. “I love the idea of a plastic shoe,” said Wu, who dashed to the fête between fittings. “It’s not only pretty to look at, it’s extremely functional when it rains.”
The unlikeliest fan? Perennially glamorous Dita Von Teese, who arrived in a floor-grazing lace number that nearly hid her Vivienne Westwood for Melissa round-toe pumps. “I was in Brazil doing a show and discovered this beautiful store with all these amazing shoes,” Von Teese told Style.com, naming the ballet slippers as favorites. (”They’re really comfortable!”) If it’s hard to imagine the burlesque beauty traipsing about in rubber flats, she admitted to donning them only in the afternoon. As the queen of cabaret put it, “I wear them when I know I’ll be dancing a lot.”
tags: Alessandra Ambrosio, Assume Vivid Astro Focus (AVAF), Dita Von Teese, Eli Sudbrack, Galeria Melissa, Gareth Pugh, Jason Wu, Lorenzo Martone, Marc Jacobs
Deco Dannijo
February 9, 2012
“We wanted to show how beautiful the pieces look in real life, not just under studio lights,” said Jodie Snyder, one half of the design duo behind Dannijo jewelry, at their Fall ‘12 presentation/dinner last night.
Their latest collection, Deco Gatsby, was modeled by a host of the designers’ friends, including Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine and Becka Diamond. “I love their statement cuffs—it’s like this necklace was made for me,” gushed Vena Cava designer Lisa Mayock; one piece was named in her honor.
The gathering at Kingswood was a welcome change from fashion week’s more formal presentations, with the sibling designers mingling around the room to check on their guests. “It was actually Lisa’s idea,” admitted Jodie of the seated dinner. “Vena Cava did a similar event for their last collection and it felt so much more intimate than a show.”
The jewelry, featuring vintage mosaics, oxidized glass, and mixed crystals, spans a spectrum of styles, and as with previous collections, the designer’s eye could be seen in each piece. “Danielle and I can have quite different aesthetics, but they always coordinate in some way,” said Jodie, motioning toward a spectacular turquoise necklace. “But look at all those crystals—that one’s mostly mine!” she laughed.
tags: Becka Diamond, Danielle Snyder, Dannijo, Jodie Snyder, Kingswood, Leandra Medine, Vena Cava
