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August 13, 2007 10:19 am
Double-crossing, shady backroom deals, glittering celebrities in pretty dresses—Dana Thomas’ new book Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, hitting shelves this week, is a fascinating look into the luxury-goods industry and whether or not artistic integrity can survive in corporate culture. We chatted with the Newsweek writer about luxe mania.
What made you decide to do this book?
When I started at The Washington Post almost 20 years ago, it was at a time when luxury fashion brands were small companies that made maybe $50 million a year in sales. Many of them were still family-run, or run by their founders. Over the years, I saw this evolution—a revolution, really—where the fashion business turned into global multibillion conglomerates run by businessmen. [LVMH head] Bernard Arnault started out as a property magnate—and he still is, only now the properties are luxury goods.
Do you think there’s a new definition of luxury?
Luxury is at a crossroads. On the one hand, you have massive brands that produce hundreds or thousands of products covered in logos, and declare themselves “luxury” based on heritage. Some of them have maintained great quality; others haven’t. And then you have the small brands—the luxury refugees—who were turned off by the business aspect and want to get back to what luxury really is. I think Louis Vuitton is extraordinary, because they meld the two paths.
You profile several fascinating characters in Deluxe.
You get the feeling sometimes that even if it’s not on purpose, some of these businessmen are simply looking to outfox or outshine the others: “I want this in my museum, and this, and this.” In some cases, ego has replaced creativity.
There’s a great story in your book about the boutique Giorgio of Beverly Hills having to close for the day after an Arab client bought all the gowns in the store for his harem. What was the most over-the-top story you heard?
I was really shocked to learn of girls working as prostitutes in Japan to earn money for bags. And then there’s the celebrity stylist who got a fashion house to pay for her liposuction in exchange for dressing her client in their clothes.
What is your personal definition of luxury?
When I was writing the book, my mantra was: Luxury is the best money can buy. But personal luxury? For me, it’s spending the afternoon napping.
—Shelly Ridenour
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