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subscribe to style file blog via RSSrequiem for a dream
October 3, 2007 2:15 pm
Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle’s Requiem has all the markings of the next big label. The designers have impeccable résumés (between them they’ve worked for Gucci, YSL, and Dior); they make a great tag team in discussing their own line (much the same way Jack and Lazaro of Proenza Schouler do); and, thanks to their wearable and polished clothes, they’re a hit with editors and retailers alike. Prior to their much-anticipated runway show today, we dropped by their atelier to discuss the duo’s reverence for the couture and what we can expect from the Spring collection.
Why Requiem as the name of your label?
Raffaele Borriello: Requiem says nostalgia. And also it relates to the wonderful music of Mozart.
It’s actually Maison Requiem, isn’t it? What does “maison” mean in this day and age?
Julien Desselle: We’re based in a Parisian atelier with the traditional know-how, and we pursue our research in the heritage of couture. This means paying great attention to detail and the finitions and working closely with the premières d’atelier and the petites mains in order to give our clothes a couture feel.
The label is Paris-based and you’re English/French and Italian—but the buzz about your line is coming out of America. Can you explain that?
JD: We started two years ago with a small, cocktail-oriented collection, and the most important department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks, and Neiman Marcus, placed orders straight away. The U.S. market has always been attracted by a couture spirit. Furthermore, the support of U.S. magazines has been a great help in our development.
Describe your aesthetic and why it’s so fifties and sixties driven.
RB: Every season, we start our research from photos of social events and parties of the 1940’s and 1950’s—Slim Aaron; holiday jet-set locations such as Barbados, Jamaica, Gstaad; Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball; the Beistegui ball in Venice; the world of Cecil Beaton and Irving Penn; icons such as Marella Agnelli, C.Z. Guest, Suzy Parker. We try to mix these references with new proportions and new fabrics every season.
This season has a jewel-tone color palette. What inspired that?
RB: The interior of villas on the Italian lakes. They’re old-fashioned colors like ocher and bleu canard that we’ve mixed with black vinyl and gold metallic jersey.
Why are there always pockets in your dresses?
JD: It gives a cool attitude to very precious dresses.
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