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February 12, 2008 11:23 am
Since founding the Fashion East incubator in London’s Old Truman Brewery in 2000, Lulu Kennedy has been instrumental in launching the careers of design talents such as Jonathan Saunders, Gareth Pugh, and Roksanda Ilincic. In fact, Fashion East is such a reliable next-big-thing barometer that it’s no longer an off-schedule quirk but one of the official LFW schedule’s hottest tickets. Kennedy took time off from last-minute prep (the show is tomorrow) to fill us in on letting her babies go, how she noses out talent, and her personal wardrobe favorites.
You’re the queen bee of this great space at the Truman Brewery, nurturing all this talent—who are you most proud of?
It was particularly gratifying to see Richard Nicoll take off. We got really close when he did Fashion East for three seasons—it was a journey we went on together and I was determined things would work for him. When he broke through, press and buyers were going nuts. I was thrilled for him.
Do your feelings get hurt when the talent you’ve nurtured opt to show elsewhere?
No, but it gutted me to miss Jonathan Saunders’ show when he moved to New York this season. I was too tied up organizing Fashion East to fly in. I’ve never missed one of his shows before—it felt wrong not being there, but I’m proud of him.
What’s your strategy for sniffing out the best talent?
I check out college shows and keep my ear to the ground, but I think because my work and social life are totally merged and I’m out a lot, I meet designers all the time. Usually I know within minutes if someone is right or not; my instincts kind of tell me. Also, my panel and friends tip me off about people and help me decide—Fashion East isn’t just me, you know, it’s a collective effort!
Who do you think is the next great talent and why?
Marios Schwab. I know it. I almost forget to breathe at his shows—I want everything I see, and it’s obvious he has a great sense of silhouette and proportion and a real understanding of women’s bodies and what works best for them. He has a beautifully refined aesthetic. I love how he can do dark, strict, but voluptuously sexy and romantic all in one garment. He’s so good it’s kind of scary, and he just gets better each season.
Among all the collections, what is on your fashion hit list—what do you have to have?
For summer ‘08 I ordered tons from Marios and Richard Nicoll—dresses, shoes, jackets, handbags, the lot! Louise Gray is making me another amazing dress, and I got sent some brilliant oversize white sunnies from Lapo Elkann’s Italia Independent label.
You’re not afraid to experiment with your own wardrobe—your dress by Louise Gray last season caught even the most jaded eyes. What wouldn’t you be caught dead in?
That dress is a real number, isn’t it? It’s the party dress to end all party dresses! People stop me in the street to ask about it, especially in New York. I don’t want to be mean and say whom I wouldn’t wear, but let’s just say my wardrobe is about 70 percent Fashion East designers and the rest is Marc, Miu Miu, and vintage. I’m a right fussy madam and turn my nose up at most other labels.
Lots of designers consider you to be their muse. If you had a muse, who would it be?
I fall for people on a daily basis. I get into people’s energy, minds, and attitude to life as well as how they look. I guess I especially love my crazy, imaginative, free-spirited friends: [performance artist] Jonny Woo from the House of Egypt; Hazel Robinson from House of Jazz, who can work a party better than anyone I know; and stylist Richard Sloan, for his wild, nonstop comedy banter.
How are you going to reward yourself after LFW?
Jump straight on a flight to Tulum with my man and visit my hippie beach bum friends. I’m not one of those people who can’t switch off from work and keeps the BlackBerry on! I’m very partial to sunbathing, large margaritas, friends, a guitar, and nothing much else for entertainment. I won’t miss work for even one minute, let me tell you!
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