ERROR:
subscribe to style file blog via RSSsixties revival
February 11, 2008 9:02 pm
Yesterday Biba (left) and Jaeger, today Ossie Clark (right): The story of London fashion week so far has been the resurrection of three blasts from the deep and distant patchouli-scented past, and in the case of Clark, an explosion of simmering rancor. Just as Marc Worth, who has licensed Clark’s name from his former manufacturer, Radley, was hosting a relaunch show at the Serpentine Gallery, Clark’s sons, George and Albert, delivered an e-mail to newspapers saying they’re considering taking legal action to prevent "unauthorized exploitation" of their late father’s name. Worth countered with a statement that his company, Quorum, has "taken appropriate advice at all stages" and is clear it has "all authorizations needed." Legal issues apart, though—did the 16-look collection do Clark’s name justice? Designed by the London-based Israeli Avsh Alom Gur, it was directly lifted from Clark’s oeuvre of glam-era moss crepe dresses, python suiting, and wide-legged trousers, but with the joyful print and color sense of Celia Birtwell (Clark’s wife) sadly missing.
In contrast, Biba and Jaeger have, in their different ways, decided that trading on the past is not the way to go. Jaeger (see our review) acquitted itself sensibly by focusing on a grown-up, underserved market that obviously exists. Biba, on the other hand, is a husk of a name in its nth reincarnation since the divine Barbara Hulanicki was ousted from her business and its owners folded the store in the early seventies. Now under the guidance of a stylist creative director, Hector Castro, yesterday’s show dispensed with nostalgia. Apart from the slight reference to a narrow, perked-up shoulder line, there were no visible vestiges of Biba-isms remaining: only yet another collection that adds more to this year’s vast supplies of ultrashort petalled dresses. Granted, they were pretty ones, nicely made, and presented in a polished way that drew parallels to Marc by Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu. But all the same, with so much competition in that department already out there (and at cheaper prices), it begs the question as to where these clothes will really end up.
tags:
