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March 11, 2008 4:23 pm
Laird Borrelli-Persson reports from Japan fashion week.
Tuesday, March 11
Noon
The day begins with the end of the world—sort of. There’s certainly something apocalyptic about the giant parkas worn with tire-size scarves that Mikio Sakabe presents at his somewhat one-note show.
3 p.m.
Support Surface designer Norio Surikabe spent years in Milan working with designers like Romeo Gigli and Alberto Biani, and his training there shows in the way he handles fabrics and in his romantic take on tailoring. Also of note is the accoustic soundtrack—a mix of guitar and sewing machine—composed and played by Yuri Miyauchi.
4 p.m.
You thought Kanye looked bad (as in good) in his face-covering skeleton hoodie? Imagine him in a face-covering scary-bunny version. Disturbing is the best way to describe Issey Miyake-alum Kazuaki Takashima’s show, which is presided over by a huge rabbit and is heavy on the dry ice. Though generally in the Gothic Lolita vein, there are some interesting knits—and humor.
5 p.m.
The soundtrack from “The Godfather” is playing on a turntable at the unmarked Number (Nine) boutique, which is located on a residential street. Lots of skinny guys with creative hair are pawing the racks. There’s stuff here for girls, too—I spot a rack of womenswear and another of men’s designs shrunk to women’s sizes.
6 p.m.
A Japanese editor tips me off to Poesie, an off-schedule presentation. I thought he mentioned that the models were deaf girls, but I misheard—turns out they’re playing DEAD girls. Akira Naka, who studied in Antwerp with Walter Van Beirendonck, has put five models in plexi-covered coffins. Sleeping beauties? Not exactly. He’d been obsessing over David Lynch—and new ways to fuse knits to woven fabrics.
7 p.m.
Bora Aksu alums Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi show a moody assortment of prints and knit jackets, the highlights of which are the kimonolike dresses and coats.
8 p.m.
Kanye and Alexis aren’t doing the JFW circuit, but one of Ato Matsumoto’s claims to fame is that the rap star wears Ato kicks in his “Stronger” video. The designer closes day two of shows in Tokyo with a simultaneous showing of his men’s and women’s lines. The colorful footwear certainly stands out, especially when paired with checked coats worn over sporty bodysuits.
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