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March 10, 2008 4:43 pm
Laird Borrelli-Persson reports from Japan fashion week.
Monday, March 10
Noon
Central Saint Martins grad Hidenobu Yasui kicks off the week with a collection titled “Where Is the Truth?” Thankfully, the show is infinitely more focused than its moniker, focusing on the lapel, the drawstring, suspension, and pleating.
1 p.m.
All three of my favorite non-fashion show discoveries are made in the Tokyo Midtown Mall. The first is the Tokyo outpost of the Paris-based patisserie Sadaharu Oaki—a favorite chez Yamamoto, Chanel, and Dior. Oaki’s colorful chocolate could be mistaken for gourmet crayons. Discovery number two is that Muji in Japan not only has a yoga line, but also sells foil-wrapped glasses of wine—perfect for picnics. Third is the Restir boutique, which is a bit like the Studio 54 version of Colette—it’s got mood lighting and a DJ booth between the first floor, which features a huge Roger Vivier section, and the second, where Balenciaga, Lanvin, Miu Miu, and Dolce & Gabbana share space with some fantastic jewelry by Qeelin, which is designed by Hong Kong-based Dennis Chan. One pendant ring featured bells filled with diamonds.
5 p.m.
Kamishima Chinami shows her collection against a projection of cathedral windows. A melange of Victorian dress, armor, petticoats, and rosettes, it’s Joan of Arc goes to Hello Kitty’s funeral.
6 p.m.
Two debut shows. The first, Zechia, designed by Masahiro Nakagawa and Lica, takes a grand theme: woman. The invite featured monthly calendars with the birthdays of such renowned women as Josephine Baker, Marilyn Monroe, and Helen Keller highlighted. The second show is Motonari Ono, who studied fashion in Japan, London, and Antwerp before being recruited by London-based Bora Aksu. His first effort is French maid meets Marie Antoinette meets S&M.
9:30 p.m.
The day ends with a vibrant show by Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi of Mintdesigns. Their “Trash, Slash, and Flash” collection is executed in Yves Klein blue, yellow, and neon orange, and features clownlike elements (zigzag knits and checkerboard motifs) as well as industrial ones (apron skirts, paper bag waists). There’s something irresistible about its happy, mad mix.
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