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november 23, 2009

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Social intelligence

theyskens’ gray monsters and amethyst gowns

May 8, 2008  5:26 pm

Shaffer

Yesterday evening, for the second time in three days, Olivier Theyskens filed through the brand spanking new “Superheroes” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum. This time, though, the Nina Ricci designer was the main attraction—as opposed to the parade of dolled-up Hollywood folk who came through the space at Monday’s gala. Congregating in the Carroll and Milton Petrie Sculpture Garden, a few lucky ladies, including Fabiola Beracasa and Shoshanna Gruss, listened intently as the Costume Institute’s curator in charge, Harold Koda, spoke to the designer about the heritage of Nina Ricci. Joining him were three of his creations, including a ruffled gray number the museum staff affectionately calls the Gray Monster and a wedding dress recently worn by a well-publicized high-society bride. The two spoke about Theyskens’ childhood—his parents were surprisingly unconcerned when an adolescent Olivier spent a lot of time with dolls (he compared it to a future football star being very good with a ball at a young age)—his excitement at joining the house of Nina Ricci, and how Ricci herself valued the creation of one couture garment. On that point, Theyskens referred to the voluminous, amethyst-based dress that Bee Shaffer wore on Monday night. “At Nina Ricci we do not hesitate to do an incredible dress. We’re able to do real couture.” A few laughs came when Theyskens told a couple of anecdotes, one about how he once got color inspiration from a meal of mussels and fries at a café in Belgium (”I wanted THAT yellow”), and another about a woman who asked about the cleaning instructions for her Nina Ricci suit. After the talk, the long-tressed designer was all smiles at the bar. “Ah, wait,” he said, suddenly remembering the Paris luxury dry cleaner that he favors, “I should have just given that woman the number for Delaporte!”

Photo: Sherly Rabbani and Josephine Solimene

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