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subscribe to style file blog via RSSchris benz’s athens diary
July 7, 2008 9:58 am
Athens is one of those cities so shrouded in history, crime, and dirt that it’s both painfully romantic and frightening. It’s one of my favorite cities in the world, and every summer I make sure to spend at least a few days there. I’ve booked two nights at the newly renovated King George Palace, a design-conscious hotel in the center of the city, facing the parliament buildings. After checking in, I spent the afternoon wandering through the Plaka district, the oldest, most charming part of Athens, much like the West Village in Manhattan.
One thing not to be missed in Athens is getting a pair of vachetta sandals custom-made by Pantelis Melissinos. I always do this, and it’s super-fun. His shop is second-generation—his father was a sandal artisan who made them for Sophia Loren, Jackie Onassis, etc. It has every style of sandal you could possibly imagine. And even better, he’s a Parsons graduate with a master’s in fine arts!
Immediately upon arrival in Athens, you need to book a table for a traditional Greek dinner at a terrific restaurant. For me, it’s found at Mamacas, in the Giza district (think East Village), a neighborhood where
even in the middle of the week, thousands of young Greeks are out in the balmy night, filling bars, restaurants, and clubs. Greece is one of those phenomenal countries that adheres to the siesta schedule—everything closes from 2 to 6 p.m, then reopens again until late in the evening. We
order tzatziki with warm pita, horiatiki (a Greek salad), horta (a spicy, steamed kale), and saganaki (fried, battered sharp cheese). Dinner would not be complete without a round of Ouzo shots with watermelon slices, the Greek version of a tequila shot with lime. The Greeks love to be loud, laugh, and get a good tan—clearly I’m feeling right at home again, already!
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