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July 7, 2008 1:17 pm
Couture week closed out Thursday night with the resurrection of a venerable tradition: the bestowing of the iconic Woolmark Prize to a promising young designer. Although the award disappeared from view for several years, it was acquired last fall by Australian Wool Innovation, which intends to restore this event to its former glory. Students of fashion will recall that the original recipients of this award were the then-unknown Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, both in 1954; other past winners include Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Romeo Gigli, Dolce & Gabbana, and Giorgio Armani. "What really amazed me was the excellence of designs from all over the world—China, Japan, Belgium, Germany, the U.S.," said Australian Wool Innovation president Craig White. The 2008 winner: 30-year-old Chinese designer Qiu Hao, a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London. His winning piece, a thick white knit dress with loops of knit that the wearer can arrange around her neck and shoulders, will be sold in limited edition at Colette in the weeks ahead. This year’s patron of the Woolmark Prize was Sonia Rykiel (do we dare say queen of knits yet again?), who is currently celebrating the 40th anniversary of her house. Style.com spoke with the 78-year-old designer just before the ceremony.
How does it feel to be the patron of the Woolmark event?
Very interesting—not to mention appropriate! Wool is a first-rate material that is easy to work and easy to live with. Knits were the first thing I did as a designer, and every season since then I’ve put out 100 different knits.
Was it difficult to choose among the finalists?
There were so many interesting, creative submissions. Two that particularly struck me were the ones in thick red and white knits.
What makes a design modern for you?
There are lots of "modernities"—modernity is in fact a pretext. There is the past, the future, and in between there is modernity. It’s not a piece of clothing that is modern; it’s about a wearing it with a certain allure, reflecting the politics of the day and a certain lifestyle. It’s about personal expression and playfulness. Modernity is about a state of mind.
Whom do you admire for their modernity?
Even Proust can be modern depending on how you read him! Paul Auster writes with lots of things going on in his mind. It doesn’t stop him from writing classically if he wants to. One is modern if one wants to be. Yamamoto and Miyake can be modern.
How does does it feel to look back on 40 years in fashion?
I really have the impression that for 40 years I have been contemplating a woman who has been right there next to me the whole time, a woman I loved. She has evolved since 1968, of course.
What is this woman about?
She loves fashion, colors, children, and all aspects of culture; she is interested and engaged in the world around her. It’s like a book—each season is a different chapter. I have created a portrait of a woman who actively participates in her era.
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