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subscribe to style file blog via RSSchallenging tradition at acne
October 16, 2008 1:35 pm
Seeing as it only happens twice a year, the publication of an issue of Acne Paper is a cause celebre in its own right. The magazine’s editor in chief, Thomas Persson, in town for tonight’s launch party at the New York Public Library, talked to Style.com about the future of the world, how to shop, and the aesthetic of eroticism. The Oslo native studied fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins before moving to Stockholm and landing the lead role at Acne Paper. He’s been putting together the oversize book since its inception in 2005, seven issues ago. Each issue has a theme, and this issue’s theme is Tradition.
You do things a little differently at Acne Paper. Can you tell me about coming up with the concept for the magazine?
I was really sort of bored with all of celebrity culture and the focus on consumerism. So I wanted to do a magazine that was not about consumerism and not about celebrity. And then I also wanted something substantial to read, and I’ve always found that conversation is a good format to really get the reader directly into the material. Also, we couldn’t afford fabulous journalists. So to begin with, we found people who could converse, really. It became a very personal voice in a magazine. I was really trying to build bridges between different disciplines and areas of knowledge, in the sense that politics has to do with art, has to do with fashion, has to do with lots of things.
So is the lack of recognizable celebrities on your covers a conscious choice?
Yes. I’m not against celebrities. It’s just that so many other magazines are doing it, so it’s nice to have an alternative.
Do the issue’s themes spring from your head fully formed, or are you influenced by contributions you’re getting from writers?
I think I have an overall idea. In “Elegance,” for instance, I didn’t want to do aggressive elegance. I wanted to do something that was more sensitive and human. I didn’t want it to be this elegant woman with beautiful red lips, and a fabulous hat, and a tight, black, little dress. Elegance can be so many things. It can be how you deal with people. To me it’s about consideration, intelligence, and being sophisticated, in a way. We did a big story on Philippe Petit, the guy who [tight-rope] walked [between] the Twin Towers. For me that was the ultimate elegance, because there was so much effort behind it, but it seemed so effortless when he was doing it. It took him six years to build himself up to do it and then when he did it, it seems like it was nothing.
The theme for this issue is Tradition, and in the letter from the editor you note that now is a particularly good time to address our complex relationship and understanding of tradition. Why now?
It was something in the air, a mood. I saw more and more of my friends paring down in how they were dressed. They were wearing again their mother’s knitted sweaters, subtle colors; there was more of an earthiness around it. Tradition also brings a sense of security, the familiar; it’s something that you can pass on for generations. Going back to celebrity and consumerism, all of that all seemed very, very empty, and yet we’ve had so much of it for so long, that going back to your roots seemed to me very exciting and new.
How do you feel about the future of our consumer-driven culture in general? Are we going to hell in a hand basket or are you more of an optimist?
I read an interesting interview with Lee Edelcourt, she’s this quite amazing trend forecaster, and said that in 2050, the farmers will be the new elite, and I thought that was kind of nice because I think we’re looking for the unique more and more. We’re looking for something handmade. There’s more luxury to that than what we perceive today as luxury. So I’m optimistic in that sense. But who knows what’s going to happen? For me, I just think we should all slow down.
Do you know what will the next theme be?
It’s going to be on eroticism. It’s sort of a departure from tradition, so it’s a completely different feel. I think, in terms of creativity and creation, which we are a lot about, everything starts with sex. Sex has inspired many artists. It’s sort of a timeless thing. It’s also very human. It has a certain kind of aesthetic to it. I couldn’t do an issue on say, passion, because I don’t get an aesthetic world in my mind. With eroticism, it’s more tangible.
What does come to mind for you?
Something that’s not in your face. You have lots of layers, you can’t really see everything. It’s an idealization of something. Fantasy and joy.
tags: Acne, Thomas Persson
I think it’s great what she is trying to do for Acne Paper Magazine. Nothing against celebrities, but having them on covers of most magazines sometimes isn’t so much of an approach to buy them, especially when you are looking for a fashion magazine. I think he is right about tradition, and the fact that tradition has faded away, so, bring it back would be something different and exiting for this era. His overall view on elegance, I agree with. I think elegance defines more then beauty, it’s about the person who you become and what makes you stand out in a room of crowded people. Another thing he mentions is the beauty about sex and inspiration that can come with it. I think a lot of people dent to take sex in a negative way. I believe that sex is not only satisfying for a person but for a persons sprit and soul which helps bring new inspiring creativity to a persons mind. Sex comes with so many types of feeling that I personally think helps someone artistic brings feeling to artwork. I love his ideas for this magazine; they are great, because it will give a new perspective to the consumers besides of what they are normally used to.
By pgalvan28 on 10/21/08 at 4:15 am