rafe totengco’s barcelona diary
October 10, 2008 9:57 am
Traveling for inspiration is a must in my business. So whenever I have to travel for work, I try to squeeze in an extended weekend to somewhere I’ve never been. This time around, after going to Premiere Vision in Paris, Peter Som and I decided to make a stop in Barcelona. Armed with a list from Yann de Rochefort of Boqueria in New York, we were ready to hit the town—and, more importantly, eat our way through it.
Our first stop was Casa Milà, a.k.a. La Pedrera, on the Passeig de Gràcia, Antoni Gaudí’s most controversial apartment building. The views of the city from the roof are spectacular. Then we had lunch with Juan Mila (son of design legend Miguel Mila) and his wife, Miranda Wilkotz, at Comerc 24, who gave us an insider’s tour of Barcelona. I bought espadrilles at La Manual Alpargatera—it’s never too early to think of spring. Then we went to Vinçon, which is Barcelona’s answer to Conran, to check out Miguel Mila’s lamps. We loved this store—it’s an Art Nouveau building totally decked out with contemporary furniture. I adore this kind of mix. That evening, we met up with author Michael Tonello (Bringing Home the Birkin) at chic Cinc Sentits in Eixample, one of his favorite restaurants. We opted for the tasting menu and chef Jordi Artal blew us away. We wished we could have had seconds, the food was that incredible!
Next day we were off to Sagrada Família first thing in the morning to avoid the busloads of tourists. This church will forever be a work in progress! We had lunch at Cuines Santa-Caterina, which is right next door to the Santa-Caterina market, so the produce is fresh everyday. Then we wandered around the Born and Barri Gòtic neighborhoods and went to the Picasso Museum and the Cathedral Santa Maria del Mar.
On Peter’s last night we waited in line for quite a while at a tapas bar called Cal Pep, but it was totally worth it. Everything was amazing, especially the trifásico (coffee with rum and milk), and Senor Pep was on hand to make recommendations to newbies like us. We were literally eating in his kitchen, the bar is that small. Since I’m staying for a few more days, I plan to come back here—and this time, I won’t mind waiting in line.
tags: Antoni Gaudi, Barcelona, Boqueria, Michael Tonello, Peter Som, Rafe Totengo, Vincon
USER COMMENTS (3)







Boy I wish I knew about all these hot spots before I went to Barcelona! Now this means that I just have to go back!
By MsMooker on 10/10/08 at 7:54 pmWe were in Barcelona in May. We stayed in Eixample - all walking distance to everything. We went most of the spots you went to - Picasso Museum and the cathedral too. Brings back memories!
By itsjoyfromla on 10/10/08 at 8:28 pmRAFE, I hope you enjoy the solemnity of
By mommychat1 on 10/10/08 at 8:58 pmSAGRADA FAMILIA,AND greeted well our RELATIVES……..GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS.